Ka Pai Learns to Appreciate Art Nouveau

Friday August 27th

Today was taken at a much more leisurely pace. Mary had woken to find that it had rained quite heavily in the night and all the bottom part of the bedding was wet because she had left the sky light open. They had slept so soundly they had no idea that it had been raining.

They intended to go to the Anton Dvorak museum, so worked out that the 17 tram would get them closest and then they would walk. They managed to get off one stop too early but it didn’t matter as they were in the new town where all the interesting Art Deco buildings are, so they were able to have a good look at these on the walk.

The Dvorak museum was small but informative and good notes were provided in English. After leaving here they walked to Charles Park and had lunch where they were approached by yet another homeless beggar wanting money for booze, cigarettes or drugs. Just as they left the park Mary looked at the sky and suggested they get jackets and umbrellas out fast. They were just in time. They managed to squash under an awning over a shop with 3 other people while the heavens literally opened. Even under there you needed coats and umbrellas. When it eased off they walked on but it suddenly happened again so they rushed into what they thought was a cafe but was really a restaurant. Having just had lunch they weren’t up for a meal, but ordered a coffee and took advantage of a free toilet. Toilets are very expensive in this part of the world. They can cost anything from 50c to $1 NZ, so you use the ones at museums and cafes when you can.

It finally stopped raining so they carried on with the walk to Wencelas Square where there were some more fine examples of Art Nouveau and Art Deco buildings. They were really making their way to the Mucha Museum but looking at other things along the way. When they finally got the Mucha they were not disappointed. What an amazing artist he was, apparently he started drawing before he started walking and his mother tied a pencil to him so he could draw on the floor. Once you see his work you realise you have seen it all before in various places. It is classic art nouveau in a similar style to RennIe Macintosh and William Morris. He made his big breakthrough in Paris when all the other artists were on holiday over Christmas and Sarah Bernhardt needed a new poster for her production of Gismonda. The original proofs for this poster are in the exhibition. He was the first artist to think of producing a long rectangular poster and it was so popular people were tearing them down in the streets and taking them at night. He literally became famous overnight.

This was one gift ship they did not leave empty handed. They could have spent lots more but thought the most sensible purchase would be a 2011 calendar. They continued on walking through all the lovely architecture and finally found the tram to take them back to the camp. When they got there it was obvious there had been a lot of rain as well. There were mud puddles everywhere. In spite of this they were able to sit out under the awning for dinner before having a much earlier night.